Old Cattle Market / St Stephen's Church

The building in which we're particularly interested is the former Blue Coat Boy public house which we mentioned on our More Schools page in relation to the school sign (now gone) in Curriers Lane.
Ipswich Historic Lettering: Old Cattle Market 2 Ipswich Historic Lettering: Old Cattle Market 2a
The metal street sign is a decorative variant on the more heavy-set cast iron street name signs featured on our Street Signs page. The six screw heads which attach it to the rendered wall are picked out in black paint and the curving ogee-type frame has a sideways fleur-de-lys extending at each side. The satisfyingly serid'd caps of the name proclaim that 'The  Old Cattle Market' extends to this open area at the top of Silent Street and is not just the area we now call the bus station.

'The Blue Coat Boy'
Ipswich Historic Lettering: OCM 1a
However, the real revelation on this building is tucked under the small jettied overhang of the first floor. '1620' which is carved into the (very narrow) black-stained bressummer beam is a surprise, particularly as it's so well hidden. The lower enhancement shows the characters more clearly. Photographing the whole beam would require careful photography and additional lighting. Our only worry about the beam is that it's in such surprisingly good nick for a 17th century piece of carving; we suppose that it could be a reproduction installed during one of the facelifts that these old buildings were often subjected to. However, the date could well be accurate and it's nice that it still exists.  Thanks to Ken Nichols for the tip-off about this dated beam.

It's worth comparing with the (also) rather recent-looking '1636' date on a building in St Helen's Street (near Major's Corner), the rather more weathered '1631' date on the bressummer beams on the Captain's Houses in Grimwade Street which can be found on the the
the Isaac Lord page which is also dated '1636'.

Where once crowds gathered to witness martyrs being burned at the stake and bulls being baited, cattle were bought and sold on the Cornhill. The Cattle Market in Ipswich has been pushed to several locations as the town expanded and became more crowded, particularly after the movements of the cavalry through the town started once the barracks were opened close to Barrack Corner on Norwich Road. The Provision Market moved from the Cornhill to a one acre site (formerly the house and grounds of Major Heron) lying between Market Lane - after which it was named - and St Stephens Lane and opened on Saturday 22 December 1810. You can still see the 'stub' - to use a Wikipedia term - of Market Street coming off the south side of the thoroughfare called Buttermarket at the back of  the building now housing a coffee chain, formerly one of several buildings there owned by the firm W.S. Cowell which combined the businesses of fine printing & stationery, wine & spirit merchants, tea, coffee and spice merchants, rag recycling (into printing paper) and home furnishing. The company was started by Walter Samual Cowell in the Buttermarket in 1818 and after a long and, towards the end chequered history, this famous firm came to an end in 1992. The lower end of Market Street, which used to come out into Falcon Street was cut off by the Buttermarket Shopping Centre in 1986.

When a bigger location had to be found for the Cattle Market, the owners of the Provision Market purchased a third of an acre site and added a low wall and railings, it had a gate onto the top of Silent Street. The site was not ideal as it was surrounded by a spider's web of small lanes: Dog's Head Lane was only 15 feet between house frontages. Buying and selling of livestock continued on the site we still call 'Old Cattle Market' until 1856 when the market was moved to the marshy ground near Friars Bridge: you can still see Friars Bridge Road coming off the north side of the stretch of Princes Street, close to the Greyfriars roundabout. The land level was raised about six feet above the surrounding marsh and the Cattle Market reopened there in September 1856. It continued in operation on the site until 1986, when a car park was built there. Plus ca change...

See Reading List for Muriel Clegg's 'The way we went', used for information above.

Thomas Rush and St Stephen's Church, St Stephen's Lane
Ipswich Historic Lettering: Old Cattle Market 4
Another carved beam hangs rather incongruously on the back of Wilkinson's modern block, facing the rear of St Stephen's Church. There is a small plaque below it which tells us a little:
'This carved first floor bressummer beam dating from early 17th century,  and showing an unidentified merchants mark, was retained by Messrs. J. Sainsbury Ltd. and reinstated here by kind permission of  C&A'.  (C&A have long gone from this building, currently occupied by Wilkinson's; Sainsbury's occupy the next shop down on Upper Brook Street, with a partial frontage on Dog's Head Street). Where the bressummer came from isn't recorded on the plaque, but it is thought that Rush’s house was located on the place where the supermarket now stands.  The first shield
about a third of the way in from the left with the 'V' shape is said to be the coat of arms of the Rush family. The mark on a shield  beside it is a vertical with arrow heads at each end and an 'X' at its centre. The letter 'R' is on a corresponding shield about a third of the way in from the right. The remaining carving shows mythical beasts.
Ipswich Historic Lettering:  T Rush beam 2 Ipswich Historic Lettering:  T Rush beam 1


Ken Nichols has supplied this information:
"You requested more information about the 'R' on the beam near St Stephen's. It is the R of Thomas Rush [or Russhe] 1490 -1560 who apart from being an important man in the town and country funded the rebuilding (I believe the south area) of St Stephen's Church. There is also a 'T' for Thomas on the south side (or doorway) I need to check where, I gained these notes from a town guide."

Another source is Ryan Rush's blog about his ancestor:
"In 1490, Thomas Rush was born in Sudbourne, Suffolk, England.  He gained favour with the Tudor monarchy, first with King Henry VII and later with his son Henry VIII, who knighted him in 1533 at the coronation of Anne Boleyn [the year before he was made sheriff of Norfolk and Suffolk.].  He married Anne Rivers of Ipswich. In 1543 Sir Thomas became the father of another Thomas.  This Thomas served briefly in the House of Commons." It's worth a searching for on your favourite search engine.

Thomas Rush was a friend of Cardinal Wolsey (Henry VIII's first Lord Chancellor and Ipswich's most famous son), he survived the fallout from Wolsey's downfall and attached himself to Wolsey's successor, Thomas Cromwell. Sir Thomas Rush is interred in the nearby St. Stephen's Church in Ipswich, which is now the Tourist Information Centre and art gallery. Sir Thomas' most famous name-bearing descendant is Dr. Benjamin Rush, signer of the United States Declaration of Independence in 1776. Dr. Rush is Sir Thomas' descendant through the latter's eponymous son.

[UPDATE 27.2.2012: Eventually, in early 2012 we solved the problem of the missing 'T'.of 'Thomas Rush'.  It took two visits to St Stephen's Church, two good walks round the exterior and one round the interior, consultation with the Tourist Information person inside, reading of a free sheet on the church and a 'phone call from within to one of their local history experts. It is now clear that the wealthy and important Thomas Rush endowed the church in order that a chapel be built on the south side of the nave dedicated to him. Looking at the exterior south wall of the church seems initially unpromising until one realises that the third buttress down the wall from the 'Wilkinson's end' is rather wide and contains an arch. For our photograph, two feral pigeons posed above it.
Ipswich Historic Lettering:  T Rush buttress 1 Ipswich Historic Lettering:  T Rush buttress 3
The area of interest is above the small blocked arch where a Rush family crest borne by two angels
carved in stone was once in place in the masonry. The initials 'T' to the upper left and 'R' to the upper right comemmorated the donor; the 'R' is long gone as is the crest. However, if you look carefully there is a 'Medieval Gothic' style initial 'T', roughly similar to that used on a well-known daily newspaper masthead: Ipswich Historic Lettering:  T Rush buttress 'T'
Ipswich Historic Lettering:  T Rush buttress 2
Our image includes an enhancement to show the decorative character 'T' with hints at the shield shape which seems to have surrounded it. There are traces of the decorative scoring which was incised into the letter. We learn that the blocked arch was a tiny doorway through the centre of this wider-than-normal buttress; it gave access to the private chapel. Clearly, they built people much smaller in those days.]

It is only a few steps away from here that we find The Sun Inn (formerly Atfield & Daughter).

The Conservative Club, St Stephen's Church Lane
Ipswich Historic Lettering: Conservative Club  Ipswich Historic Lettering: Conservative Club crusader
We had dismissed this lettering for many years, perhaps because of politics, perhaps because it has always looked worn and run down. However, in updating the St Stephens Church section (above), we passed it again and decided it ought after all to be included. The left panel is in rather poorer nick than the right, perhaps due to vandalism (it doesn't say much for the quality of the ceramic tiles which make up the signs), but the figure of the crusader bearing the huge Union Flag banner is unmistakable. The yellow has worn better than the blue, it must be said. The entrance to:
'IPSWICH
CONSERVATIVE
CLUB'
is in a narrow passageway leading from the church to Upper Brook Street called St Stephen's Church Lane. This is distinct from St Stephen's Lane which leads up from Dog's Head Street, past The Sun Inn and – after Arras Square – runs up alongside The Ancient House to come out opposite Dial Lane.



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